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permaculture-designer Guide to permaculture design including core principles, zone planning, food forests, companion planting, water management, soil building, seasonal planning, and community garden design. Use when the user asks about permaculture designer or needs help with related topics. Do NOT use for unrelated domains or when a more specialized skill exists.
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name permaculture-designer description Guide to permaculture design including core principles, zone planning, food forests, companion planting, water management, soil building, seasonal planning, and community garden design. Use when the user asks about permaculture designer or needs help with related topics. Do NOT use for unrelated domains or when a more specialized skill exists.
license Apache-2.0 metadata {"author":"foundry-skills","version":"1.0.0","tags":"gardening sustainability guide","category":"hobbies-crafts","subcategory":"outdoor-recreation","depends":"","disclaimer":"none","difficulty":"beginner"}
Permaculture Designer
When to Use
Process
Gather requirements. Ask the user clarifying questions about their specific context, goals, constraints, and experience level.
Analyze the situation. Review the information provided and identify key factors, challenges, and opportunities relevant to permaculture designer.
Develop the framework. Create a structured approach tailored to the user's needs, incorporating best practices and domain-specific considerations.
Deliver actionable output. Present specific, implementable recommendations with clear rationale, timelines, and success criteria.
Address edge cases. Proactively identify potential issues, alternative approaches, and contingency plans.
User needs guidance on permaculture designer
User asks about permaculture designer best practices or techniques
User wants a structured approach to permaculture designer
Do NOT use this skill when:
A more specialized skill exists for the specific subtopic
The request is outside the scope of permaculture designer
Questions to Ask First Before designing a permaculture system:
What is your site like? (Size, slope, sun exposure, soil type, climate zone)
What are your goals? (Food production, wildlife habitat, water management, beauty, all of the above)
How much time can you dedicate to maintenance? (1 hour/week, 5 hours/week, full-time)
What is your experience with gardening or land management?
Do you own the property, or is this a rental/community space?
What is your budget for initial implementation? ($100 / $500 / $2,000 / $10,000+)
What is your USDA Hardiness Zone? (Find at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov)
What are your water sources? (Municipal, well, rainwater, irrigation access)
Are there any restrictions? (HOA rules, local ordinances, deed restrictions)
Who else will be involved in the project?
Permaculture Design Principles
The Three Ethics
Earth Care : Work with natural systems, build soil, protect biodiversityPeople Care : Meet human needs sustainably, build communityFair Share : Limit consumption, redistribute surplus, share abundance
David Holmgren's 12 Design Principles
Observe and interact : Spend a full year observing your site before major changesCatch and store energy : Harvest water, sunlight, biomass, and nutrientsObtain a yield : Ensure every element produces something usefulApply self-regulation and accept feedback : Learn from mistakes, adjustUse and value renewable resources : Prefer perennials, solar, wind, biologicalProduce no waste : Every output becomes an input elsewhereDesign from patterns to details : Observe natural patterns, then apply locallyIntegrate rather than segregate : Every element serves multiple functionsUse small and slow solutions : Start small, scale what worksUse and value diversity : Polyculture over monocultureUse edges and value the marginal : Edges between ecosystems are most productiveCreatively use and respond to change : Work with succession, adapt to conditions
Zone Planning
The Zone System Zones organize your landscape by frequency of use and maintenance needs:
Indoor food production (sprouts, herbs on windowsill)
Energy efficiency
Thermal mass and passive solar design
Indoor air quality plants
Zone 1: Intensive Use (Daily visits)
Kitchen herb garden
Salad greens and frequently harvested vegetables
Compost bins
Rainwater collection
Worm farm
Small animal housing (chickens, rabbits if allowed)
Typically within 50 feet of the home
Zone 2: Semi-Intensive (Regular maintenance)
Main vegetable garden
Perennial vegetables
Small fruit trees and berry bushes
Larger compost system
Beehives
Small pond
Cover crops and green manures
Zone 3: Farm Zone (Occasional maintenance)
Orchard and food forest
Staple crops (corn, potatoes, grains on larger sites)
Pasture for livestock
Hay meadow
Larger water storage (dam, large swale)
Zone 4: Semi-Wild (Minimal management)
Managed woodland for timber, mushrooms, nuts
Wild food foraging areas
Grazing land managed with rotational grazing
Wildlife corridors
Zone 5: Wild (No management)
Unmanaged natural area
Wildlife habitat
Observation and learning area
Seed source for native plants
Watershed protection
Sector Analysis Map external energies affecting your site:
Sun sector : Track sun path across seasons (shade patterns shift dramatically)Wind sector : Prevailing wind directions by seasonWater sector : Where water flows during rain, flood risk areasFire sector : Wildfire risk direction and buffer needsNoise/visual sector : Screen undesirable views, buffer highway noiseWildlife sector : Animal movement corridors, pest entry points
Food Forest Design
What Is a Food Forest? A designed ecosystem mimicking a natural forest structure, with all layers producing food, medicine, or useful materials.
Seven Layers of the Food Forest
Canopy layer : Large trees (apple, pear, pecan, chestnut, walnut)Understory tree layer : Small trees (plum, cherry, persimmon, pawpaw, hazelnut)Shrub layer : Berry bushes (blueberry, elderberry, gooseberry, currant, hazelnut)Herbaceous layer : Perennial herbs and vegetables (comfrey, rhubarb, artichoke, sorrel, mint)Ground cover layer : Low-growing edibles (strawberry, clover, creeping thyme, violets)Vine layer : Climbing plants (grape, kiwi, passionflower, hops, hardy kiwi)Root layer : Root crops (Jerusalem artichoke, groundnut, horseradish, turmeric)Mycelial layer : Mushrooms (shiitake on logs, wine caps in mulch, oyster mushrooms)
Food Forest Design Steps
Site assessment : Sun, water, soil, microclimateChoose canopy trees first : These define the system (plant spacing matters most)Select understory trees : Choose species that tolerate partial shadePlan shrub and herbaceous layers : Fill gaps with productive speciesAdd ground covers : Living mulch that suppresses weeds and feeds soilInstall vines : On trees, trellises, or fences (be careful of smothering smaller trees)Incorporate mushroom cultivation : Inoculated logs and wood chip bedsMulch heavily : 4-6 inches of wood chip or straw mulch everywhere bare soil exists
Food Forest Spacing (General Guidelines)
Large fruit trees: 20-30 feet apart
Small fruit trees: 12-18 feet apart
Berry bushes: 4-8 feet apart
Herbaceous plants: 1-3 feet apart
Plant the north side of the food forest with tallest trees (Northern Hemisphere)
Companion Planting Guide
The Three Sisters (Classic)
Corn : Tall stalk provides support for beansBeans : Fix nitrogen in soil for corn and squashSquash : Large leaves shade soil, suppress weeds, retain moisture
Beneficial Combinations Plant Good Companions Avoid Tomatoes Basil, carrots, parsley, marigolds Fennel, brassicas Peppers Basil, onions, spinach, tomatoes Fennel, kohlrabi Beans Corn, squash, cucumber, carrots Onions, garlic, fennel Carrots Onions, leeks, tomatoes, peas Dill, parsnips Lettuce Carrots, radishes, strawberries, chives None significant Brassicas Onions, garlic, beets, celery Strawberries, tomatoes Cucumbers Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers Potatoes, aromatic herbs Roses Garlic, chives, lavender, marigolds None significant
Dynamic Accumulators Plants that mine deep nutrients and make them available at the surface:
Comfrey : Potassium, calcium, phosphorus (the "king" of permaculture plants)Yarrow : Potassium, phosphorus, copperDandelion : Potassium, calcium, ironBorage : Potassium, calcium, attracts pollinatorsChop and drop these plants as mulch around fruit trees and vegetables
Nitrogen-Fixing Plants
Trees : Black locust, alder, autumn olive (caution: invasive in some regions)Shrubs : Siberian pea shrub, goumiHerbaceous : Clover, vetch, lupine, alfalfaInterplant nitrogen fixers throughout the food forest and garden
Water Management
Swale Design
Swales : Level ditches on contour that catch and infiltrate rainwaterDig a ditch along the contour line (level from end to end, NOT running downhill)
Pile excavated soil on the downhill side (the berm)
Plant the berm with trees and shrubs (roots stabilize and absorb)
Swales slow, spread, and sink water into the landscape
Spacing: 30-60 feet apart on gentle slopes, closer on steeper slopes
Rain Gardens
Shallow depression planted with native species that tolerate wet and dry
Capture runoff from roofs, driveways, and paved areas
Size: Roughly 20% of the area draining into it
Depth: 4-8 inches deep
Native plants with deep roots preferred (coneflower, switchgrass, iris)
Overflow outlet for major storms
Rainwater Harvesting
Roof collection : 1 inch of rain on 1,000 sq ft roof = 623 gallonsFirst flush diverter : Removes initial dirty water from roofStorage : Tanks, cisterns, barrels (55 gallon to 10,000+ gallon)Use : Garden irrigation, livestock, toilet flushing (check local codes)Check regulations : Some states restrict rainwater harvesting (most allow it)
Keyline Design
Advanced water management system for farms and large properties
Uses the natural topography to spread water from valleys to ridges
Keyline plow creates shallow channels that redirect water
Dramatically increases soil water-holding capacity
Requires professional survey for proper implementation
Soil Building
The Living Soil Healthy soil is a living ecosystem containing billions of organisms per teaspoon:
Bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, arthropods, earthworms
Mycorrhizal fungi form networks connecting plant roots (the "wood wide web")
Building soil biology is more important than adding fertilizers
Soil Building Techniques
Sheet mulching (lasagna gardening) : Layer cardboard, compost, straw/wood chips directly over grass or weeds. Plant into it after decomposition (3-6 months).Composting : Hot compost (thermophilic, 130-160F) for fast results, cold compost for less effortVermicomposting : Red wiggler worms process kitchen scraps into castingsCover cropping : Plant clover, rye, vetch, or buckwheat during fallow periodsChop and drop : Cut plants (especially comfrey) and leave on soil surface as mulchBiochar : Charcoal mixed with compost and added to soil for long-term carbon storageNo-till / minimal disturbance : Avoid turning soil, which disrupts fungal networks
Soil Testing
Get a soil test before major planting (through local agricultural extension office, $15-30)
Test for: pH, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), organic matter, micronutrients
Retest every 2-3 years to track improvement
Most vegetables prefer pH 6.0-7.0
Most fruit trees prefer pH 6.0-6.5
Blueberries prefer pH 4.5-5.5 (acidic)
Seasonal Planning
Spring
Start seeds indoors (6-8 weeks before last frost)
Sheet mulch new garden areas
Divide and transplant perennials
Plant trees and shrubs (while dormant or just breaking bud)
Apply compost to established beds
Set up rainwater collection before spring rains
Summer
Succession plant quick crops (lettuce, radishes) every 2-3 weeks
Mulch heavily to retain moisture
Chop and drop comfrey and dynamic accumulators
Monitor and manage pests (beneficial insect habitat is your defense)
Harvest and preserve (canning, drying, freezing)
Plan fall plantings
Fall
Plant garlic, onions, and overwintering crops
Seed cover crops on empty beds
Plant trees and shrubs (good root establishment before winter)
Collect seeds from successful plants
Build soil with leaf mulch (fall leaves are gold)
Clean and store season-extension equipment
Winter
Plan next season's garden design
Order seeds and bare-root plants
Prune dormant fruit trees
Build and repair infrastructure (beds, trellises, paths)
Study and take courses
Start indoor microgreens and sprouts
Community Garden Design
Site Selection
Minimum 6 hours direct sunlight
Water access (hose bib, irrigation connection)
Reasonable distance from participants' homes
Secure (fencing, visibility from street or buildings)
Not contaminated (test soil for lead, especially in urban areas)
Layout Considerations
Individual plots: 4x8 or 4x12 feet typical (raised beds in contaminated soil areas)
Shared/communal areas: Herb spiral, perennial beds, tool shed
Pathways: 3-4 feet wide for wheelbarrow access, ADA accessible
Water stations distributed throughout (every 50-100 feet)
Gathering space: Picnic table, shade structure, bulletin board
Compost area: Central, with clear usage guidelines
Perimeter: Fruit trees, berry bushes, or pollinator hedgerow
Governance
Written rules and agreement signed by all participants
Plot assignment process (waitlist, lottery, priority for returning gardeners)
Maintenance responsibilities (individual plots + shared areas)
Water usage policy
Organic-only policy (recommended, prevents neighbor chemical drift)
Conflict resolution process
Seasonal cleanup requirements
Safety Considerations
Test soil for contaminants before growing food (especially urban sites, former industrial land, near old buildings with lead paint)
Use raised beds with imported soil if contamination is found
Be aware of poisonous plants on your site (castor bean, foxglove, hemlock)
Wear gloves when handling compost (tetanus risk from soil bacteria)
Use appropriate sun protection during long outdoor work sessions
Secure water features to prevent drowning hazard (especially for children)
Be aware of local wildlife: Snakes, ticks, poison ivy/oak/sumac
Progression Path
Phase 1 : Observe your site for one full year, build soil, start sheet mulchingPhase 2 : Establish Zone 1 garden (herbs, salad, compost), install rain barrelPhase 3 : Plant first fruit trees, establish perennial beds, build swalesPhase 4 : Develop food forest layers, expand to Zone 2-3Phase 5 : Integrate animals (chickens, bees), advanced water managementPhase 6 : Design for community, teach others, earn PDC (Permaculture Design Certificate)
Resources
Books : "Gaia's Garden" by Toby Hemenway (best beginner book)Books : "The Permaculture Handbook" by Peter BaneBooks : "Edible Forest Gardens" by Dave Jacke (comprehensive food forest reference)Courses : PDC (Permaculture Design Certificate) - 72-hour course available worldwideOnline : Oregon State University permaculture courses, Verge Permaculture YouTubeOrganizations : Permaculture Institute, local permaculture guildsSoftware : Google Earth for site analysis, Sun Surveyor app for solar analysis
Output Format Deliver the response as a structured document with clear headings and actionable content. Use tables for comparisons, numbered lists for sequential steps, and bullet points for options. Include specific examples where applicable.
[Permaculture Designer deliverable]
1. Context and objectives
2. Analysis or framework
3. Specific recommendations with rationale
4. Action items with timeline
Example Input: "Help me with permaculture designer for a mid-size project."
Output: A complete permaculture designer framework tailored to the specific context, with actionable steps, relevant considerations, and measurable outcomes.
Edge Cases
Incomplete information: Ask clarifying questions before proceeding rather than making assumptionsConflicting requirements: Identify trade-offs explicitly and present options with pros and consScale mismatch: Adapt recommendations to match the user's context (individual vs. team vs. organization)Domain crossover: When the request overlaps with other skill domains, address what falls within scope and reference specialized skills for the rest 