gardening

name	Gardening
description	Plant care, soil management, seasonal timing, pest control, and garden planning.
metadata	{"category":"lifestyle","skills":["gardening","plants","vegetables","landscaping","horticulture"]}

Soil Fundamentals

• Test soil before amending — pH and nutrients determine what to add, not guessing
• Most plants prefer pH 6.0-7.0 — blueberries need acidic (4.5-5.5), lavender needs alkaline
• Compost fixes almost everything — improite clay drainage, sandy retention, feeds soil life
• Never work wet soil — compacts structure, takes years to recover
• Mulch 2-3 inches around plants — retains moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates temperature

Watering Mistakes

• Deep infrequent > shallow frequent — trains roots to grow deep, builds resilience
• Morning watering best — leaves dry before night, reduces fungal disease
• Water soil, not leaves — wet foliage invites disease, wastes water
• Wilting in afternoon heat is normal — check morning, if still wilted then water
• Container plants dry faster — may need daily watering in summer

Planting Timing

• Last frost date is starting point — count back for seed starting, forward for transplant
• Soil temperature matters more than air — cold soil rots seeds, use thermometer
• Cool season crops: lettuce, peas, broccoli — plant early spring and fall
• Warm season crops: tomatoes, peppers, squash — after soil reaches 60°F/15°C
• Perennials: plant in fall — roots establish over winter, less stress than spring

Spacing Reality

• Seed packet spacing is minimum — crowded plants compete, underperform
• Air circulation prevents disease — don't pack plants together
• Mature size, not transplant size — that tiny tomato becomes 6 feet tall
• Vertical growing saves space — trellises for cucumbers, beans, tomatoes
• Succession planting: stagger sowings 2-3 weeks — continuous harvest, not glut

Fertilizer Basics

• N-P-K: Nitrogen (leaves), Phosphorus (roots/flowers), Potassium (overall health)
• More is not better — overfertilizing burns roots, causes leggy growth
• Organic slow-release preferred — feeds soil life, not just plants
• Heavy feeders (tomatoes, corn) need more — light feeders (beans, herbs) need less
• Stop fertilizing 4-6 weeks before first frost — don't encourage tender growth

Pest Management

• Identify before treating — wrong treatment wastes time, may harm beneficials
• Healthy plants resist pests better — soil health is pest prevention
• Beneficial insects: ladybugs eat aphids, wasps parasitize caterpillars — don't kill all bugs
• Physical barriers first: row covers, handpicking, water spray
• Pesticides last resort — even organic ones kill beneficials

Common Pest Signs

Sign	Likely Cause	First Response
Holes in leaves	Caterpillars, beetles	Handpick, Bt spray
Sticky residue	Aphids, scale	Strong water spray
White powder on leaves	Powdery mildew	Improve airflow, remove affected
Yellowing from bottom	Nitrogen deficiency or overwatering	Check soil moisture first
Wilting despite wet soil	Root rot	Reduce watering, improve drainage

Pruning Principles

• Clean cuts: sharp tools, just above node or bud — ragged cuts invite disease
• Prune spring bloomers after flowering — they set buds on old wood
• Prune summer bloomers in late winter — they bloom on new growth
• Remove dead/diseased/crossing branches first — the 3 Ds
• Never remove more than 1/3 at once — stresses plant, triggers excessive regrowth

Composting

• Browns (carbon): dry leaves, cardboard, straw — provide structure
• Greens (nitrogen): kitchen scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds — provide nutrients
• Ratio: 3 parts brown to 1 part green — too green = smelly, too brown = slow
• Turn every 1-2 weeks — aeration speeds decomposition
• Finished when dark, crumbly, earthy smell — 2-6 months depending on method

Season Extension

• Cold frames: unheated mini greenhouse — extends season 4-6 weeks each end
• Row covers: frost protection to ~28°F/-2°C — lighter grades for pest barrier
• Mulch heavily before frost — protects roots of perennials
• Succession plant cold-hardy crops in fall — spinach, kale, garlic
• Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplant date — lighting critical

Container Gardening

• Drainage holes mandatory — no rocks in bottom, just holes
• Potting mix, not garden soil — garden soil compacts, drains poorly in pots
• Size matters: tomatoes need 5+ gallons, herbs can use smaller
• Containers dry fast — may need twice-daily watering in heat
• Feed more frequently — nutrients wash out with watering

Planning Principles

• Right plant, right place — sun/shade, wet/dry requirements must match site
• Group by water needs — don't mix drought-tolerant with water-lovers
• Native plants easier — adapted to local conditions, support local wildlife
• Start small, expand later — better to maintain small garden well than large garden poorly
• Keep garden journal — what worked, what failed, when planted