| name | permaculture-designer |
| description | Guide to permaculture design including core principles, zone planning, food forests, companion planting, water management, soil building, seasonal planning, and community garden design. Use when the user asks about permaculture designer or needs help with related topics. Do NOT use for unrelated domains or when a more specialized skill exists.
|
| license | Apache-2.0 |
| metadata | {"author":"foundry-skills","version":"1.0.0","tags":"gardening sustainability guide","category":"hobbies-crafts","subcategory":"outdoor-recreation","depends":"","disclaimer":"none","difficulty":"beginner"} |
Permaculture Designer
When to Use
Process
-
Gather requirements. Ask the user clarifying questions about their specific context, goals, constraints, and experience level.
-
Analyze the situation. Review the information provided and identify key factors, challenges, and opportunities relevant to permaculture designer.
-
Develop the framework. Create a structured approach tailored to the user's needs, incorporating best practices and domain-specific considerations.
-
Deliver actionable output. Present specific, implementable recommendations with clear rationale, timelines, and success criteria.
-
Address edge cases. Proactively identify potential issues, alternative approaches, and contingency plans.
Use this skill when:
- User needs guidance on permaculture designer
- User asks about permaculture designer best practices or techniques
- User wants a structured approach to permaculture designer
Do NOT use this skill when:
- A more specialized skill exists for the specific subtopic
- The request is outside the scope of permaculture designer
Questions to Ask First
Before designing a permaculture system:
- What is your site like? (Size, slope, sun exposure, soil type, climate zone)
- What are your goals? (Food production, wildlife habitat, water management, beauty, all of the above)
- How much time can you dedicate to maintenance? (1 hour/week, 5 hours/week, full-time)
- What is your experience with gardening or land management?
- Do you own the property, or is this a rental/community space?
- What is your budget for initial implementation? ($100 / $500 / $2,000 / $10,000+)
- What is your USDA Hardiness Zone? (Find at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov)
- What are your water sources? (Municipal, well, rainwater, irrigation access)
- Are there any restrictions? (HOA rules, local ordinances, deed restrictions)
- Who else will be involved in the project?
Permaculture Design Principles
The Three Ethics
- Earth Care: Work with natural systems, build soil, protect biodiversity
- People Care: Meet human needs sustainably, build community
- Fair Share: Limit consumption, redistribute surplus, share abundance
David Holmgren's 12 Design Principles
- Observe and interact: Spend a full year observing your site before major changes
- Catch and store energy: Harvest water, sunlight, biomass, and nutrients
- Obtain a yield: Ensure every element produces something useful
- Apply self-regulation and accept feedback: Learn from mistakes, adjust
- Use and value renewable resources: Prefer perennials, solar, wind, biological
- Produce no waste: Every output becomes an input elsewhere
- Design from patterns to details: Observe natural patterns, then apply locally
- Integrate rather than segregate: Every element serves multiple functions
- Use small and slow solutions: Start small, scale what works
- Use and value diversity: Polyculture over monoculture
- Use edges and value the marginal: Edges between ecosystems are most productive
- Creatively use and respond to change: Work with succession, adapt to conditions
Zone Planning
The Zone System
Zones organize your landscape by frequency of use and maintenance needs:
Zone 0: The Home
- Indoor food production (sprouts, herbs on windowsill)
- Energy efficiency
- Thermal mass and passive solar design
- Indoor air quality plants
Zone 1: Intensive Use (Daily visits)
- Kitchen herb garden
- Salad greens and frequently harvested vegetables
- Compost bins
- Rainwater collection
- Worm farm
- Small animal housing (chickens, rabbits if allowed)
- Typically within 50 feet of the home
Zone 2: Semi-Intensive (Regular maintenance)
- Main vegetable garden
- Perennial vegetables
- Small fruit trees and berry bushes
- Larger compost system
- Beehives
- Small pond
- Cover crops and green manures
Zone 3: Farm Zone (Occasional maintenance)
- Orchard and food forest
- Staple crops (corn, potatoes, grains on larger sites)
- Pasture for livestock
- Hay meadow
- Larger water storage (dam, large swale)
Zone 4: Semi-Wild (Minimal management)
- Managed woodland for timber, mushrooms, nuts
- Wild food foraging areas
- Grazing land managed with rotational grazing
- Wildlife corridors
Zone 5: Wild (No management)
- Unmanaged natural area
- Wildlife habitat
- Observation and learning area
- Seed source for native plants
- Watershed protection
Sector Analysis
Map external energies affecting your site:
- Sun sector: Track sun path across seasons (shade patterns shift dramatically)
- Wind sector: Prevailing wind directions by season
- Water sector: Where water flows during rain, flood risk areas
- Fire sector: Wildfire risk direction and buffer needs
- Noise/visual sector: Screen undesirable views, buffer highway noise
- Wildlife sector: Animal movement corridors, pest entry points
Food Forest Design
What Is a Food Forest?
A designed ecosystem mimicking a natural forest structure, with all layers producing food, medicine, or useful materials.
Seven Layers of the Food Forest
- Canopy layer: Large trees (apple, pear, pecan, chestnut, walnut)
- Understory tree layer: Small trees (plum, cherry, persimmon, pawpaw, hazelnut)
- Shrub layer: Berry bushes (blueberry, elderberry, gooseberry, currant, hazelnut)
- Herbaceous layer: Perennial herbs and vegetables (comfrey, rhubarb, artichoke, sorrel, mint)
- Ground cover layer: Low-growing edibles (strawberry, clover, creeping thyme, violets)
- Vine layer: Climbing plants (grape, kiwi, passionflower, hops, hardy kiwi)
- Root layer: Root crops (Jerusalem artichoke, groundnut, horseradish, turmeric)
- Mycelial layer: Mushrooms (shiitake on logs, wine caps in mulch, oyster mushrooms)
Food Forest Design Steps
- Site assessment: Sun, water, soil, microclimate
- Choose canopy trees first: These define the system (plant spacing matters most)
- Select understory trees: Choose species that tolerate partial shade
- Plan shrub and herbaceous layers: Fill gaps with productive species
- Add ground covers: Living mulch that suppresses weeds and feeds soil
- Install vines: On trees, trellises, or fences (be careful of smothering smaller trees)
- Incorporate mushroom cultivation: Inoculated logs and wood chip beds
- Mulch heavily: 4-6 inches of wood chip or straw mulch everywhere bare soil exists
Food Forest Spacing (General Guidelines)
- Large fruit trees: 20-30 feet apart
- Small fruit trees: 12-18 feet apart
- Berry bushes: 4-8 feet apart
- Herbaceous plants: 1-3 feet apart
- Plant the north side of the food forest with tallest trees (Northern Hemisphere)
Companion Planting Guide
The Three Sisters (Classic)
- Corn: Tall stalk provides support for beans
- Beans: Fix nitrogen in soil for corn and squash
- Squash: Large leaves shade soil, suppress weeds, retain moisture
Beneficial Combinations
| Plant | Good Companions | Avoid |
|---|
| Tomatoes | Basil, carrots, parsley, marigolds | Fennel, brassicas |
| Peppers | Basil, onions, spinach, tomatoes | Fennel, kohlrabi |
| Beans | Corn, squash, cucumber, carrots | Onions, garlic, fennel |
| Carrots | Onions, leeks, tomatoes, peas | Dill, parsnips |
| Lettuce | Carrots, radishes, strawberries, chives | None significant |
| Brassicas | Onions, garlic, beets, celery | Strawberries, tomatoes |
| Cucumbers | Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers | Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
| Roses | Garlic, chives, lavender, marigolds | None significant |
Dynamic Accumulators
Plants that mine deep nutrients and make them available at the surface:
- Comfrey: Potassium, calcium, phosphorus (the "king" of permaculture plants)
- Yarrow: Potassium, phosphorus, copper
- Dandelion: Potassium, calcium, iron
- Borage: Potassium, calcium, attracts pollinators
- Chop and drop these plants as mulch around fruit trees and vegetables
Nitrogen-Fixing Plants
- Trees: Black locust, alder, autumn olive (caution: invasive in some regions)
- Shrubs: Siberian pea shrub, goumi
- Herbaceous: Clover, vetch, lupine, alfalfa
- Interplant nitrogen fixers throughout the food forest and garden
Water Management
Swale Design
- Swales: Level ditches on contour that catch and infiltrate rainwater
- Dig a ditch along the contour line (level from end to end, NOT running downhill)
- Pile excavated soil on the downhill side (the berm)
- Plant the berm with trees and shrubs (roots stabilize and absorb)
- Swales slow, spread, and sink water into the landscape
- Spacing: 30-60 feet apart on gentle slopes, closer on steeper slopes
Rain Gardens
- Shallow depression planted with native species that tolerate wet and dry
- Capture runoff from roofs, driveways, and paved areas
- Size: Roughly 20% of the area draining into it
- Depth: 4-8 inches deep
- Native plants with deep roots preferred (coneflower, switchgrass, iris)
- Overflow outlet for major storms
Rainwater Harvesting
- Roof collection: 1 inch of rain on 1,000 sq ft roof = 623 gallons
- First flush diverter: Removes initial dirty water from roof
- Storage: Tanks, cisterns, barrels (55 gallon to 10,000+ gallon)
- Use: Garden irrigation, livestock, toilet flushing (check local codes)
- Check regulations: Some states restrict rainwater harvesting (most allow it)
Keyline Design
- Advanced water management system for farms and large properties
- Uses the natural topography to spread water from valleys to ridges
- Keyline plow creates shallow channels that redirect water
- Dramatically increases soil water-holding capacity
- Requires professional survey for proper implementation
Soil Building
The Living Soil
Healthy soil is a living ecosystem containing billions of organisms per teaspoon:
- Bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes, arthropods, earthworms
- Mycorrhizal fungi form networks connecting plant roots (the "wood wide web")
- Building soil biology is more important than adding fertilizers
Soil Building Techniques
- Sheet mulching (lasagna gardening): Layer cardboard, compost, straw/wood chips directly over grass or weeds. Plant into it after decomposition (3-6 months).
- Composting: Hot compost (thermophilic, 130-160F) for fast results, cold compost for less effort
- Vermicomposting: Red wiggler worms process kitchen scraps into castings
- Cover cropping: Plant clover, rye, vetch, or buckwheat during fallow periods
- Chop and drop: Cut plants (especially comfrey) and leave on soil surface as mulch
- Biochar: Charcoal mixed with compost and added to soil for long-term carbon storage
- No-till / minimal disturbance: Avoid turning soil, which disrupts fungal networks
Soil Testing
- Get a soil test before major planting (through local agricultural extension office, $15-30)
- Test for: pH, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), organic matter, micronutrients
- Retest every 2-3 years to track improvement
- Most vegetables prefer pH 6.0-7.0
- Most fruit trees prefer pH 6.0-6.5
- Blueberries prefer pH 4.5-5.5 (acidic)
Seasonal Planning
Spring
- Start seeds indoors (6-8 weeks before last frost)
- Sheet mulch new garden areas
- Divide and transplant perennials
- Plant trees and shrubs (while dormant or just breaking bud)
- Apply compost to established beds
- Set up rainwater collection before spring rains
Summer
- Succession plant quick crops (lettuce, radishes) every 2-3 weeks
- Mulch heavily to retain moisture
- Chop and drop comfrey and dynamic accumulators
- Monitor and manage pests (beneficial insect habitat is your defense)
- Harvest and preserve (canning, drying, freezing)
- Plan fall plantings
Fall
- Plant garlic, onions, and overwintering crops
- Seed cover crops on empty beds
- Plant trees and shrubs (good root establishment before winter)
- Collect seeds from successful plants
- Build soil with leaf mulch (fall leaves are gold)
- Clean and store season-extension equipment
Winter
- Plan next season's garden design
- Order seeds and bare-root plants
- Prune dormant fruit trees
- Build and repair infrastructure (beds, trellises, paths)
- Study and take courses
- Start indoor microgreens and sprouts
Community Garden Design
Site Selection
- Minimum 6 hours direct sunlight
- Water access (hose bib, irrigation connection)
- Reasonable distance from participants' homes
- Secure (fencing, visibility from street or buildings)
- Not contaminated (test soil for lead, especially in urban areas)
Layout Considerations
- Individual plots: 4x8 or 4x12 feet typical (raised beds in contaminated soil areas)
- Shared/communal areas: Herb spiral, perennial beds, tool shed
- Pathways: 3-4 feet wide for wheelbarrow access, ADA accessible
- Water stations distributed throughout (every 50-100 feet)
- Gathering space: Picnic table, shade structure, bulletin board
- Compost area: Central, with clear usage guidelines
- Perimeter: Fruit trees, berry bushes, or pollinator hedgerow
Governance
- Written rules and agreement signed by all participants
- Plot assignment process (waitlist, lottery, priority for returning gardeners)
- Maintenance responsibilities (individual plots + shared areas)
- Water usage policy
- Organic-only policy (recommended, prevents neighbor chemical drift)
- Conflict resolution process
- Seasonal cleanup requirements
Safety Considerations
- Test soil for contaminants before growing food (especially urban sites, former industrial land, near old buildings with lead paint)
- Use raised beds with imported soil if contamination is found
- Be aware of poisonous plants on your site (castor bean, foxglove, hemlock)
- Wear gloves when handling compost (tetanus risk from soil bacteria)
- Use appropriate sun protection during long outdoor work sessions
- Secure water features to prevent drowning hazard (especially for children)
- Be aware of local wildlife: Snakes, ticks, poison ivy/oak/sumac
Progression Path
- Phase 1: Observe your site for one full year, build soil, start sheet mulching
- Phase 2: Establish Zone 1 garden (herbs, salad, compost), install rain barrel
- Phase 3: Plant first fruit trees, establish perennial beds, build swales
- Phase 4: Develop food forest layers, expand to Zone 2-3
- Phase 5: Integrate animals (chickens, bees), advanced water management
- Phase 6: Design for community, teach others, earn PDC (Permaculture Design Certificate)
Resources
- Books: "Gaia's Garden" by Toby Hemenway (best beginner book)
- Books: "The Permaculture Handbook" by Peter Bane
- Books: "Edible Forest Gardens" by Dave Jacke (comprehensive food forest reference)
- Courses: PDC (Permaculture Design Certificate) - 72-hour course available worldwide
- Online: Oregon State University permaculture courses, Verge Permaculture YouTube
- Organizations: Permaculture Institute, local permaculture guilds
- Software: Google Earth for site analysis, Sun Surveyor app for solar analysis
Output Format
Deliver the response as a structured document with clear headings and actionable content. Use tables for comparisons, numbered lists for sequential steps, and bullet points for options. Include specific examples where applicable.
[Permaculture Designer deliverable]
1. Context and objectives
2. Analysis or framework
3. Specific recommendations with rationale
4. Action items with timeline
Example
Input: "Help me with permaculture designer for a mid-size project."
Output: A complete permaculture designer framework tailored to the specific context, with actionable steps, relevant considerations, and measurable outcomes.
Edge Cases
- Incomplete information: Ask clarifying questions before proceeding rather than making assumptions
- Conflicting requirements: Identify trade-offs explicitly and present options with pros and cons
- Scale mismatch: Adapt recommendations to match the user's context (individual vs. team vs. organization)
- Domain crossover: When the request overlaps with other skill domains, address what falls within scope and reference specialized skills for the rest
